Wheel installation

Contents

What you can expect to find on this page

Here we show you how to install a SPEEDHUB wheel, into the bicycle frame.

The removal process can be found in the link below:

Wheel removal

Pointer

Please take note of the following steps when mounting the wheel to the frame:
1. Installation of the wheel into the frame (1.1 - 1.2)
2. Securing of the axle and, where appropriate, the torque arm (2.1 - 2.2)
3. Connecting the gear-mech (3.1 - 3.2)

Installation of the wheel into the frame

Wheel installation

Place the wheel into the dropouts, taking care that the chain is sitting properly on the sprocket and that the hub cables do not get clamped between the dropouts and the axle.

Attention

A chain tensioner prevents the easy installation of the rear wheel (when mounted). The chain tensioner must be pulled backwards in the direction of the arrow to allow the sprocket to pass the chain tensioner. When, however, it is a DH chain tensioner, then the mounting bolt must be loosened before the rear wheel can be installed.

Wheel installation: OEM or OEM2 versions

On the OEM or OEM2 versions, the axle and the torque support are installed together.

On the OEM versions, the axle must enter the long OEM dropout first, followed by the support block into the same slot.

On the OEM2 versions with Rohloff SPEEDBONE, take care that the Rohloff SPEEDBONE support peg lines up with the axle plate seat as the axle is entered into the dropouts.

On the OEM2 versions with just a support bolt or Monkey Bone, take care that the support bolt or Monkey Bone lines up with the axle plate seat as the axle is entered into the Dropouts.

After installing the wheel, close the quick release lever (CC versions - tightening torque: max. 7Nm/62in.lbs.),  tighten the axle nuts (TS versions - tightening torque: max. 35Nm/310in.lbs.), or tighten the A12 securing bolts (max. 20Nm/177in.lbs.).

Attention

Before closing the quick release lever or tightening the axle nuts, check that both sides of the axle sit properly in the dropouts and that the wheel runs in the center of the frame.

Securing the long torque arm

CC versions

Swing the torque arm into the quick release block in the direction of the arrow shown.

Close the quick release F by pushing the quick release pin in the direction of the wheel, so that the outside of the pin is flush with the quick release block.

Close the quick release lever (max. 7Nm)

TS versions

Swing the torque arm in the direction of the securing clamp until it is possible to push the securing bolt through the holes of the clamp and the torque arm. Check that the axle is sitting properly in the Dropouts.

Tighten the axle nuts (tightening torque: 35Nm/310in.lbs.). With the nut and washer, tighten the torque arm securing bolt with 4mm allen key (tightening torque: 6Nm/51in.lbs.).

Attention

Before closing the quick release lever (max. 7Nm/62in.lbs.) or tightening the axle nuts (max. 35Nm/310 in.lbs.), check that both sides of the axle sit properly in the dropouts and that the wheel runs in the centre of the frame.

Joining of the gear mech

Internal gear mech

To rejoin the gear mech, the male and female bayonet connectors must be joined back together. Pay attention not to cross these cables over when joining the hub and shifter cables together. Push the male connector into the female connector until the spring locks them together. Take care not to hold the female connector by the spring.

External gear mech

Rejoining the gear mech involves remounting the cable box. Place the twist shifter into gear #14 then place cable box over the hexagonal peg so that the two locating pegs sit into the two holes in the back of the cable box. Turn the twist shifter back and forth around gear #14 until the cable box falls into place over the hexagonal peg. Lastly tighten up the knurled head screw.

Attention

Should all 14 gears not be selectable after fitting the cable box, it will be down to the hub or the twist shifter not being in gear #14. There are two methods to correct this.

Method 1:
Remove cable box and turn the twist shifter into gear #1. Refit cable box and shift until it can no longer be turned. If you are not in gear #14 of the twist shifter then disconnect the cable box and turn the twist shifter into gear #14. Now reconnect the cable box to have access to all 14 gears.

Method 2:
Remove the cable box and turn the twist shifter into gear #14. Take an 8 mm wrench and use it to turn the hexagonal peg on the external transfer box anticlockwise until it reaches the end stop. Now the hub is in gear #14, so the cable box can be remounted.