Place the rear wheel into the dropouts and rotate the axle, so that the long torque arm sits just underneath the chainstay. Close the quick release Lever.

Bend the long torque arm sideways until the small end sits directly underneath the chainstay.

Insert the locating fork into the quick release block and push the quick release pin in. To ease this process, pull the torque arm down, away from the chainstay.

Closed position: The quick release pin is flush with the outer side of the quick release block (Fig. 5). To open: Push the quick release pin from the inner side.

Push the long torque arm with the attached quick release block against the underside of the chain stay. The protuding side of the quick release pin must face inwards. With the axle quick release lever closed, check that the quick release block sits directly under the chainstay. If not, bend the torque arm into the correct position.

Both clamps should be bent around the chainstay into position as shown in the picture above. The securing bolts of the clamps must sit on the inside of the frame facing downwards.

Remove the clamps and (using wire cutters) trim them to the correct length. Small photo: Remove the sharp edges (Risk of injury).

Fit both clamps and tighten the securing bolts evenly (tightening torque: 2.5Nm/21.5in.lbs.). 

Open the quick release pin and the axle quick release lever, check that the locating fork can be easily swung in and out of the quick release block. If not, the clamps must be loosened and quick release block relocated accordingly.

Place the rear wheel into the dropouts and rotate the axle, so that the long torque arm sits just underneath the chainstay. Tighten the axle nuts.

Bend the long torque arm sideways until the end sits directly underneath the chainstay.

Place the metal clamp over the chainstay and secure to the end of the long torque arm with the supplied bolt. (10mm wrench and 4mm allen key - tightening torque: 6Nm/51in.lbs.).

When mounting the wheel, the axle peg must be inserted into the long dropout slot first, followed by the support block. Before closing the quick release lever (CC versions) or tightening the axle nuts (TS versions), check that both axle pegs are sitting correctly within the dropout Slots.

The Rohloff chain tensioner comes with one short and one long mounting bolt and four distancing washers (4 x 1mm, 2 x 3mm). With the distancing washers, it is possible to distance the Rohloff chain tensioner 1mm to 10mm away from the frame.

The table shows the required distance B to be filled by distancing washers in relation to the dropout thickness and the chainline used. When mounting the Rohloff chain tensioner in this correct distance from the dropout, it is guaranteed that the jockey wheels sit directly underneath the sprocket.

Secure the Rohloff chain tensioner, so that the end stop peg A sits against the back of the gear hanger. (5mm Allen wrench, tightening torque: 8Nm/70in.lbs., lightly grease the mounting bolt).

Make sure that the upper jockey wheel is correctly spaced with the distancing washers, so that it sits directly underneath the sprocket (arrowed).

Fit the new chain over the chainring and sprocket and thread it through the chain tensioner.

On hardtail frames the chain length should be adjusted, so that the chain tensioner cage sits between 0° and 30°.

On rear suspension frames, check that the chain tensioner is not overtensioned when the rear triangle moves the full amount of travel. The amount of chain links needed varies, depending on the position of the pivot point of the rear triangle. To check, swing the rear triangle to its end position (e.g. remove the rear shock). If the lower jockey wheel is higher than the upper jockey wheel, or if the chain tensioner cage is against the chain stay, then the chain must be lengthened.

The Rohloff DH chain tensioner comes with 2 mounting bolts and 9 distancing washers (4 x 1mm, 2 x 3mm, 3 x 0.2mm).

The position of the Rohloff DH chain tensioner must be mounted in line with the sprocket by the use of the distancing washers. Mounting procedure: See chapter ‘Mounting’, paragraph 5.2.1. "Rohloff chain tensioner".

Place all three 0.2mm or one 0.5mm distancing washers between the outer side of the swing arm and the mounting bolt. This will guarantee that the swing arm is prevented from moving. Mount the Rohloff DH chain tensioner with the correct amount of distancing washers, so that the jockey wheels sit directly underneath the sprocket for the correct chain line.

The diagram above shows the Rohloff chain guide CC mounted with all mounting parts shown. The number/type of distancing washers and shims required varies depending on the frame. Therefore, a few measurements must be taken in order to mount the Rohloff chain guide CC correctly.

Firstly the seat tube diameter has to be measured at the point level with the top of the chainring.

To mount the Rohloff chain guide CC to a seat tube with a diameter smaller than 36mm, one of the three supplied shims will have to be used. The table shows the correct shim for the different seat tube diameters.

Clip the shim over the seat tube at the position level with the top of the chainring.

The distance  X between the seat tube with shim and the inner side of the chainring determines how many distancing washers will need to be fitted. This is shown in the table.

Example: X=35mm. A 1mm distancing washer and a 2mm distancing washer are needed between the front and the rear threaded bushes and the left guide plate.

The chainguide is mounted with the appropriate number and size of distancing washers up to the point shown in the diagram above. (M4x20 and M4x35 - Torx TX20, tightening torque: 3Nm/25in.lbs.).

Mount the clamp brackets either side of the seat tube by screwing the bolts (M4x35 - Allenkey 2.mm) through the clamp brackets into the lightly greased threaded bushes of the pre-assembled chain guide. Locate the gap of the shim between the two clamp brackets.

The rear distance bush (arrowed) can now be mounted using a lightly greased countersunk head bolt (M4x20 - Torx TX20, tightening torque 3Nm/25in.lbs.) and secured into the hexagonal nut below the upper chain run. Slide the chain guide down the seat tube until there is approx. 5mm between the rear distance bush and the teeth of the chainring. Make sure the chain runs parallel and central between the two guide plates (distances A, fig. 1).

Remove the sprocket (see chapter "Service", paragraph 3. ‘Sprocket reversing/replacing’). Clean the sprocket and regrease the thread.

Place chain guide A and the mounting ring B onto the hub casing as shown above, screw the sprocket back on hand-tight. The mounting ring holds the DH chain guide the correct distance away from the sprocket.

The three grub screws C (M4x8 - 2mm Allen wrench) should be screwed in evenly until they all touch the hub casing. Then tighten up all three screws in rotational order one complete turn at a time until they drill their way into the hub casing itself. During this process, the mounting ring will be trapped between the sprocket and the chain guide.

Unscrew each of the grub screws half a turn, this loosens the mounting ring so that the sprocket can now be removed. Make sure the pointed ends do not loosen out of the holes they drilled into the hub casing. Remove the mounting ring and tighten up all three grub screws ¾ of a turn.

Lastly regrease the sprocket thread and thread the sprocket back onto the driver.