Regarder. Comprendre. Appliquer.
Nous sommes très heureux de pouvoir mettre ces petits films à votre disposition.
Attention cependant à bien considérer ces supports comme un bonus à la compréhension et non comme une substitution aux manuels et consignes de montage écrites dans lesquels vous trouverez des informations indispensables comme les valeurs de couple de serrage et autres indications précises pour un montage fiable et sécurisé.
Même si Rohloff propose de par le monde tout un réseau de détaillants/mécaniciens qui vous aideront en cas de besoin, il est clair que sur les hauts plateaux d’Asie centrale, lors de la montée du Mont Kenya ou aux abords du salar d’Uyuni, mieux vaudra compter sur soi-même pour contrôler la tension de ses rayons, changer de pignon ou de câble ou bien faire sa vidange. A ce titre, nous essayons ici de vous transmettre d’une manière variée et pédagogique des bases de mécanique.
To change the shifter cables you will need a set of 2x 1.1mm stainless steel shifter cables and a set of sealed housing ferrules - article number 8703. Start the process by removing both the shifter cable housing and ferrules. The cable stopper will then be free'd automatically.
You can now remove the old inner shifter cables.
Please note: shifter cable #14 can only be removed when the twist shifter is positioned between gear numbers 8 and 9 whilst shifter cable #1 can only be removed when positioned between gear numbers 6 and 7.
Whilst pushing the shifter cable, rotating the twist shifter lightly helps ease the nipple out of its seat in the cable pulley. These shifter cables can be disposed of, along with the old ferrules.
This graphic illlustrates the cable routing inside the twist shifter. It is important to note the orientation of the cable nipple prior to fitting the new shifter cable. Shifter cable #14 is inserted to the left from above whereas shifter cable #1 is inserted to the right from below.
To fit shifter cable #14, rotate the twist shifter to the position between gear numbers 8 and 9. Insert the shifter cable until it reappears out of the shifter body. Pull the shifter cable through whilst rotating the twist shifter lightly to catch the nipple correctly in the seat of the cable pulley. Repeat the process for shifter cable #1. This time, the process should be completed with the shifter positioned between gear numbers 6 and 7.
To check that the twist shifter rotates freely and easily, pull each shifter cable alternately through to its respective bed-stop. If the twist shifter rotates freely, the cable stoppers can both be replaced.
The cable housing ends are fitted with a sealed ferrule in preparation for the shifter cables. The process is finished after fitting the cable housing into the twist shifter.
To connect the internal shifter cables, you will need: a Cable Hook (Article #8506), side cutters and a 2mm Allen key.
Start by ensuring the two barrel adjusters are set at approximately 3 rotations from their bedstop. Seat the cable housing into the barrel adjusters. Insert the shifter cable #1 into its correct cable housing and pull this through completely. Repeat this process for shifter cable #14 and check the smooth function of these cables by pulling on each in turn.
Pull hub cable #1 through all gears to its bedstop. The SPEEDHUB has now been shifted into gear #1. Connect the Cable hook to the bayonett connector, lay the shifter cable into the hook and wind the cable around it in an anticlockwise direction.
Pull Shifter cable #1 taut – the shifter will rotate to its bedstop at gear #14. Trim the Shifter cable directly over the cable hook with the side cutters.
The Cable Hook can now be removed and replaced by the Bayonett connector. Ensure the two grub screws are loosened before fitting the two bayonet connectors together.
The first grub screw is tightened until it makes contact with the shifter cable. The second grub screw is then used to secure the cable in position.
Shifter cable #1 is now complete. To continue the mounting of shifter cable #14, the bayonet needs to be reopened. Hold the bayonet connectors over their screws and rotate them in opposing directions.
Pull the hub cable #14 through all gears to its bedstop and do the same with shifter cable #14. The twist shifter will now rotate to its bedstop at gear #1. Use the cable hook and side cutters to trim the cable as before, fit the bayonet connector and join the cables together.
In the final steps, check that all 14 speeds are present - by counting 13 indexed 'clicks' - and alter the cable tension with the barrel adjusters if necessary. Remember that a minimum of 2mm of play is required on the shifter.
Once the cables have been threaded into the shifter and the housing has been routed to the rear cable box, you can fit the shifter cable to the External gear mech.
When replacing the shifter cables for an External gear mech, you will require:
Either the standard length replacement shifter cable set (Article #8268) or the tandem length set (Article #8267), a 200mm cable measuring aid or tape measure, side cutters, a 2mm Allen key, a TX20 wrench, an 8mm wrench and some grease.
The cable box pre-mounted for test-fitting, can now be easily removed.
Pull the shifter cable completely through the housing, checking the housing is seated correctly in the shifter and routed smoothly along the frame without any unnecessary 'kinks'.
Pull a shifter cable out to its bedstop - in this film, we have chosen to trim the cable that rotates the shifter towards gear #1 first. This cable must be measured with the 200mm cable measuring aid or a tape measure and trimmed 200mm from the housing. Make sure that the cable is pulled taut before cutting!
Now trim the second cable in the same way. Pull the cable until the shifter reaches the other bedstop, measure, pull taut and trim.
Unscrew the two barrel adjusters by approximately 2mm and thread these onto the shifter cables.
For orientation, on the right we have routed the cable into the cable box. The top cable is Shifter cable #14, the lower is Shifter cable #1. Please also take note of the correct orientation of the cable pulley itself:- the side with the recess always faces the SPEEDHUB.
Regardless of which direction the cable box is mounted, Shifter cable #14 is inserted into the upper blind hole of the cable pulley and secured with a 2mm Allen key. Shifter cable #1 goes into the remaining lower blind hole and is secured from behind with the 2mm Allen key.
Wrap shifter cable #1 around the cable pulley once and hold it in this position whilst doing the same with shifter cable #14 in the opposite direction.
Place the wrapped cable pulley into the cable box with shifter cable #14 in the top position. Ensure the barrel adjusters are seated correctly in the cable box exits.
Be certain the cable pulley runs smoothly by rotating the twist Shifter through all 14 gears.
Fit and secure the cable box lid with two TX20 screws to complete this stage of the shifter cable replacement.
Before connecting the two components together, ensure that the Twist Shifter and SPEEDHUB are synchronised. Rotate the Twist shifter to show gear #14. Next, using an 8mm wrench, rotate the hexagonal peg of the External gear mech anticlockwise to its bedstop to ensure that the SPEEDHUB is also in gear #14.
Lightly coat the contact areas of the gear mech and cable pulley with a little grease. Rotating the shifter slightly back-and-forth helps the two components to connect. Secure the cable box in place with the knurled nut.
Use the barrel adjusters to correct cable tension (a minimum of 2mm is required). As the final step, check that all 14 speeds are present - keeping in mind that 14 speeds is 13 indexed 'clicks'.
The Oil in the Rohloff SPEEDHUB must be changed once a year or every 5000km, whichever comes first. To change the SPEEDHUB oil you will need the 'Oil Change Kit' (article #8410). This comprises of: a syringe, filler tube, cleaning oil, SPEEDHUB oil and a new oil drain screw. In addition, you will require a 3mm Allen key and a clean cloth.
Changing the oil is a 3-stage process: rinsing, extracting and re-filling.
We begin by rinsing the hub. Rotate the wheel so that the oil drain screw is facing upwards. Using the 3mm Allen key, remove the screw and set it aside for later. Unscrew the cap off the cleaning oil bottle, insert the filler tube and extract the contents into the syringe. If your bicycle uses disc brakes, be sure to protect the disc from overspray using the clean cloth. Screw the filler tube into the SPEEDHUB shell approximately 3 turns and insert the contents of the syringe into the hub. After a few seconds, extract 25ml air back into the syringe to rebalance the internal air pressure of the SPEEDHUB.
Remove the filler tube, refit the old oil drain screw and tighten lightly in position.
The actual rinsing process occurs with the rotation of the cranks both forwards and backwards whilst shifting between gears #3 and #5 for approximately 3 minutes. This process can be completed either in a repair stand or by taking a short ride.
Remove the oil drain screw once more and screw the filler tube back into the hub shell. Rotate the wheel so that the filler tube and syringe hang vertically downwards. Leave the wheel in this position for approximately 15 minutes so that the oil mixture has time to collect at the bottom of the SPEEDHUB.
Slowly extract the oil mixture from the SPEEDHUB - the exact quantity will inevitably vary between 12,5 and 50ml. For safe disposal, transfer this used oil into the empty cleaning oil bottle.
Clean the syringe by pumping it repeatedly, before refilling it with SPEEDHUB oil. In the last stage, the SPEEDHUB is refilled with new oil. Shake the SPEEDHUB oil bottle, remove the cap and extract 12,5ml into the syringe.
Rotate the wheel so that the oil drain screw faces upwards and screw the filler tube into the SPEEDHUB shell. Insert the contents of the syringe into the SPEEDHUB and again after a few seconds extract 12,5ml of air to rebalance the internal air pressure levels. Remove the syringe from the SPEEDHUB.
The process is completed by fitting the new oil drain screw and cleaning the area with a cloth. The SPEEHDUB is now ready for another year or 5000km of cycling enjoyment.
All Rohloff SPEEDHUB sprockets are designed to be reversible and once reusable with the exception of the 13-tooth size. If one tooth flank is worn, you can simply flip it over and continue riding using the unworn tooth flank.
Ensure your SPEEDHUB is in gear 14 before removing it from the bicycle.
To complete this procedure, you will need:
A new sprocket (unless reversing the old one)
A Rohloff sprocket remover tool (Article #8501)
A 24mm wrench
A chain-whip and some grease.
Start by ensuring the sprocket and driver seats are free from dirt. Connect the sprocket remover tool to the driver and secure it in position with either the quick release skewer (CC version shown on the left) or an axlenut (TS version shown on the right). Securing the tool with the quick release skewer or axlenut is vital to ensure the driver is not damaged during the process.
Hold the sprocket remover tool steady using the 24mm wrench and unscrew the sprocket using the chain-whip in the oposing direction to drive. This is best achieved using a sudden, shock action.
The loosened sprocket can now be removed over the sprocket remover tool and can now either be reversed or replaced. Whichever the choice, ensure the new seal surface is clean and burr-free so as to avoid potential oil loss after mounting.
Before mounting, lightly grease the sprocket thread.Screw the sprocket over the sprocket remover tool in the direction of drive and complete the procedure by securing it in position with the chain-whip. We recommend mounting a new chain following this procedure to ensure the compatibility of both drive components.
To replace the axle ring you will require the axlering replacement kit (Article #8572), a TX20 wrench, a 17mm wrench, a 10mm wrench, a 15mm wrench and some grease.
The axleplate is attached to the axlering with either 5 axleplate screws using a quick change axlering pictured left, or 6 axleplate screws (Pre 2003) pictured right.
To replace the axlering, we first need to remove the old one by removing these screws. The quick change axlering has an extra screw under the axleplate which must also be removed!
Do not flip the wheel over once screws and components have been removed. Oil can drain out of the open holes. The small freewheel springs in the axlering side can also easily be misplaced.
Remove the old paper gaskets. Now synchronise the SPEEDHUB by using the 8mm socket to shift the SPEEDHUB into gear #8. Rotate the hexagonal peg anticlockwise to the bed-stop and then count 6 'clicks' clockwise to locate gear #8.
Before fitting the new axlering, check that both new paper gaskets are sitting correctly so that all axlering holes are visible. If the freewheel springs were dislodged when removing the old axlering, make sure they are now sitting correctly. Ensure both hub cable ends are the same length. In this position the groove of the cable pulley should direct towards the 9-10 o'clock position.
Please note: The stainless steel axlering screw is shorter than the axleplate screws!
Check the smooth function of the new hub cable by pulling each cable end alternately through all 13 indexed 'clicks'. In each end position the cable lengths should be the same.
Smear with grease before re-mounting the axleplate in the original position. Tighten the axleplate screws to 3Nm in a cross-formation to ensure even torque.
Check again that the replaced gear mech runs smoothly throughout all 13 'clicks'.
Mount the wheel back into the frame ensuring the axleplate is correctly seated. Close the Quick Release skewer or tighten the axle nuts to secure it in place. The task is finished by connecting the male and female bayonet connectors. Be sure to hold the bayonets over the screw heads to avoid the need for excessive force.
If needs be, the cable tension can be tweaked using the two barrel adjusters. Correct cable tension should leave approximately 2-3mm of play in the twist shifter. This ensures the indexing is clearly defined whilst shifting.
An O-ring, the new rubber grip, some grease (Vaseline) and a small flat-blade screwdriver.
The rubber grip can be replaced without having to remove the shifter cables.
Lever the circlip out of position with the screwdriver and slide the rubber grip off the twist shifter body. Lay both components to one side.
If the twist shifter is mounted to Carbon Fibre handlebars, the whole shifter should be removed from the handlebar and the process completed on a workbench.
Clean the shifter body with a cloth and apply a light coat of fresh grease to the contact areas.
Place the O-ring into the rubber grip and lightly coat both component surfaces with grease (Vaseline).
The cable pulley and rubber grip can only connect in one position. The 5 locating pegs on the rubber grip must align with the 5 holes in the cable pulley.
The two components should engage easily with very little force. Once together, refit the circlip and check that the twist shifter can rotate through all 14 gears. To finish this process, refit the remaining handlebar components.
You will require; an external gear mech (article #8213), a pipe-wrench, a TX20 wrench, a 10mm wrench, a 2mm Allen key, an 8mm socket wrench and some grease.
The finished result should look identical to the example on the left. Hold the axleplate steady using the 10mm wrench whilst unscrewing the axleplate screws with the TX20 wrench. Remove the screws and axleplate.
With the axleplate removed, you can access the axlering screw. Remove the screw and loosen the axlering by gently rocking it back-and-forth. If it is too tight, use the pipe-wrench for extra leverage. You may want to place sections of cardboard between the wrench and the axlering to protect the anodized finish.
Ensure the two freewheel springs haven't been dislodged or lost upon removal of the axlering and are sitting correctly. During this conversion both paper gaskets will be replaced. Ensure that the holes of the large gasket match-up correctly with the holes in the axlering. The fixed guide pin positions indicate where the grub screw needs to be. Fit the grub screw leaving approximately 2mm protruding above the axle surface. The External Transfer box can now be mounted to the axle.
Using the 8mm socket, shift the SPEEDHUB into #14th gear using the end of the shifting shaft.
Place the cable pulley onto the hexagonal peg of the External Transfer box so that the two grub screw holes follow an imaginary line through the axle centre. Place the small gear onto the shifting shaft end. This will only sit correctly in one position. Try each position, carefully rotating the gear until the correct position is found.
To ensure the system operates smoothly, fill with a little grease. Finally, mount the axleplate in the correct position and secure it in place with the 5 screws – tighten to 3Nm using the 10mm wrench to hold the axleplate if required.
Finish the conversion by removing the cable pulley, fitting the cable box in one of the two possible positions and if needs be, amend the axleplate position to achieve an optimum cable routing.
To replace the hub cable using an 'Easy-set', you will require a TX20 wrench, the hub cable 'Easy-set' (Article #8573), side cutters, some grease, a 10mm wrench, a 15mm wrench and an 8mm socket.
A broken hub cable is easily die ntifiable: pulling one end of the cable will cause the gears to be shifted as expected, whereas pulling the other end will have no effect. A visual check can also be performed by simply removing the zip-ties and inspecting the hub cable underneath the concertina tubing. The Hub cable is a wearable component and should be replaced every 8-10,000 kilometers as a precautionary measure.
Start by removing all axleplate screws along with the axleplate itself. It may be necessary to hold the axleplate steady with the 10mm wrench. Lift the cable guides and remove the hub cable assembly.
Use the 8mm socket to shift the SPEEDHUB into 8th gear. Rotate the hexagonal peg anticlockwise to the bed-stop, and then count 6 'clicks' clockwise to locate gear #8.
We are now ready to fit the new hub cable 'Easy-set'. Ensure both hub cable ends are the same length. It is equally important to ensure that the correct side of the cable pulley is facing outwards. In this position the groove of the cable pulley should be in position between 9-10 o'clock. The concertina tubes can now be drawn back and the zip-tie removed. Insert the cable guides back into their respective positions in the axlering with the long nylon end directed upwards. Fill the gaps with grease and replace the axleplate in the original position. Tighten the axleplate screws in a cross-formation to ensure even torque.
Check the smooth function of the new hub cable by pulling each cable end alternately through all 13 indexed 'clicks'
Mount the wheel back into the frame ensuring the axleplate is correctly seated. Close the Quick Release skewer or tighten the axle nuts to secure it in place.
Connecting the male and female bayonet connectors finishes the task. Be sure to hold the bayonets over the screw heads to avoid the need for excessive force.
If necessary the cable tension can be corrected using the two barrel adjusters. Correct cable tension should leave approximately 2-3mm of play in the twist shifter. This ensures clearly defined indexing whilst shifting.