One-piece Axle-ring

Remove the rear wheel. With good wire cutters, cut off the four cable ties that hold the concertina tubes over the hub cables.

Unsrew both bayonet male connectors from the hub cables (M4x4 - 2mm Allen wrench) and remove the concertina tubes.

To change the hub cables, the axle plate must be first removed. To do this unscrew the six axle plate screws (M4x25 - Torx TX20).

To hold the axle steady, grip the long torque arm tightly or hold the OEM or OEM2 axleplate with a 10mm wrench (see chapter "Mounting", paragraph 4.3).

Lie the wheel on a flat surface with the axle-ring facing up and the cable guides facing to the right. Rock the axle-ring from side to side whilst pulling it upwards in order to loosen it from the hub.
 

The mounting of the cable pulley must be carried out in gear #14. To do this, the axle has to be held steady with a 17mm wrench on the aluminum nut (sprocket side).

With an 8mm wrench turn the hexagonal peg in an anticlockwise direction until the end stop. Now the hub is in gear #14.

Remove both paper gaskets from the rear side of the axle ring (where applicable). Always use new paper gaskets when remounting the axle ring.

Push the cable pulley out of the axle-ring from the rear side. Take care not to tilt the cable pulley for an easier removal. Remove the old hub cable and clean both the cable pulley and the axle-ring. Check cable pulley for burrs and deburr if necessary.
 

Push the new hub cable approx. half way into the cable pulleys lower hole from the inner side.

Next push the other end of the cable into the top hole of the cable pulley until both ends of the cable stick approx. the same length out of the other side.

Hold the cabel pulley tight and with the other hand grasp the hub cables and pull them quickly until the cable sits properly in the cable pulley without getting kinked.

Pay attention to which side of the cable pulley is the mounting side. The back/mounting side has a recess before its hexagonal hole. The front side is without this recess.

Put the cable pulley onto an 8mm Allen wrench with the front side on top. Bend the hub cables in the direction of the cable runs in the cable pulley. The top cable should be wound approx. 2 ¾ times around the cable pulley.
 

Hold both ends of the hub cable in position with thumb and index finger.

Press both ends of the hub cable together with the thumb and index finger of the other hand. Remove the cable pulley from the 8mm Allen wrench.

Grip the cable pulley with a free hand so that both ends of the hub cable are held in position. Hold this so that front side of the cable pulley faces up.

Thread the right end of the hub cable (long end) through the right hand cable guide. Thread the left end of the hub cable (short end) through the left hand cable guide. This procedure works a lot easier when the axle-ring is held by a third hand.
 

Pull the cable pulley up to the axle-ring by pulling both ends of the hub cable equally. Push the cable pulley into a parallel position with the axle-ring using the thumb (from outside) and index finger (from inside) whilst keeping the tension applied to both hub cable ends. The cable pulley then springs into the axle-ring hole.
 

The cable pulley must rotate freely within the axle-ring when pulling each end of the hub cable. Prevent the cable pulley from springing out of the axle-ring with the thumb and index finger.
 

Place a new paper gasket over the locating pegs of the axle-ring so that all holes meet up with the corresponding screw holes of the axle-ring. The smaller gasket sits in the recess on the rear side of the axle-ring.

Lay the wheel on a flat surface so that the two locating peg holes (not threaded) lay at positions 3 and 9 o'clock (arrowed).

Hold the axle-ring in the left hand and pull the right end of the hub cable until the end stop (groove rotates to about 2 o'clock).

Pull the left end of the hub cable so that the groove rotates approx. 1/2 revolution. The groove in the cable pulley should now sit between the 7 and 8 o'clock positions. This is the position of gear #14. Hold the axle-ring and the cable pulley securely in this position and place this onto the gearbox with the locating pegs in the correct holes.
 

Make sure that the hexagonal peg sits correctly within the hole of the cable pulley (groove between the 7 and 8 o'clock positions). It may be necessary to alter the position of the cable pulley by a minimal amount. Apply some grease between the cable pulley and the axle-ring (arrowed). Replace the axleplate and secure into position with the six axleplate screws, tightening them in cross formation (Torx TX20, tightening torque: 3Nm/25”lbs.).
 

Check the function of the axle-ring by gripping one end of the hub cable with pliers and pulling this out to the end stop. Repeat this process with the other end of the hub cable. At the end stops, both ends of the hub cables should protude from the cables guides by the same amount.
 

Check the side cable is pulled out to its end stop. Measure* this cable and cut it at 165mm with sharp wire cutters. Place a new concertina tube carefully over the cable and place the male bayonet connector onto the end of the cable.
 

Push the cable up into the male bayonet connector as far as it will go and tighten both 4mm headless screws (2mm Allen wrench, tightening torque: 1.5Nm/12”lbs.). Pull the front (1)  side cable with pliers through the 13 clicks of the gear-unit until the endstop (gear #1). Measure* this cable and cut it at 165mm with sharp wire cutters.

Place a new concertina tube and male bayonet connector over the cable. Tighten up the connector as with the other. Pull the shorter cable until both of the hub cables are approx. the same length. Place the two new concertina tubes over the cable guides and secure with cable ties. Make sure that the cable ties clamp the concertina tubes over the recess in each of the cable guides.

The top ends of the concertina tubes must be placed over the ends of the male bayonet connectors and secured with cable ties. Make sure that the cable ties clamp the concertina tubes over the recesses.