Wheel installation

Pointer

Please take note of the following steps when mounting the wheel to the Frame:
1. Installation of the wheel into the frame (1.1 o. 1.2)
2. Securing of the axle and, where appropriate, the torque arm(2.1 o. 2.2)
3. Joining of the gear mech (3.1 o. 3.2)

Installation of the wheel into the frame

Wheel installation

Place the wheel into the dropouts, taking care that the chain is sitting properly on the sprocket and that the hub cables do not get clamped between the dropouts and the axle.

Attention

A chain tensioner prevents the easy installation of the rear wheel (when mounted). The chain tensioner must be pulled backwards in the direction of the arrow to allow the sprocket to pass the chain tensioner. When, however, it is a DH chain tensioner, then the mounting bolt must be loosened before the rear wheel can be installed.

Wheel installation: OEM or OEM2 versions

On the OEM or OEM2 versions, the axle and the torque support are installed together.

On the OEM versions, the axle must enter the long OEM dropout first, followed by the support block into the same slot.

On the OEM2 versions with Rohloff SPEEDBONE, take care that the Rohloff SPEEDBONE support peg lines up with the axle plate seat as the axle is entered into the dropouts.

On the OEM2 versions with just a support bolt or Monkey Bone, take care that the support bolt or Monkey Bone lines up with the axle plate seat as the axle is entered into the Dropouts.

After installing the wheel, close the quick release lever (CC versions - tightening torque: max. 7Nm/62in.lbs.) or tighten the axle nuts (TS versions - tightening torque: max. 35Nm/310in.lbs.).

Attention

Before closing the quick release lever or tightening the axle nuts, check that both sides of the axle sit properly in the dropouts and that the wheel runs in the center of the frame.

Securing the long torque arm

CC versions

Swing the torque arm into the quick release block in the direction of the arrow shown.

Close the quick release F by pushing the quick release pin in the direction of the wheel, so that the outside of the pin is flush with the quick release block.

Close the quick release lever (max. 7Nm)

TS versions

Swing the torque arm in the direction of the securing clamp until it is possible to push the securing bolt through the holes of the clamp and the torque arm. Check that the axle is sitting properly in the Dropouts.

Tighten the axle nuts (tightening torque: 35Nm/310in.lbs.). With the nut and washer, tighten the torque arm securing bolt with 4mm allen key (tightening torque: 6Nm/51in.lbs.).

Attention

Before closing the quick release lever (max. 7Nm/62in.lbs.) or tightening the axle nuts (max. 35Nm/310 in.lbs.), check that both sides of the axle sit properly in the dropouts and that the wheel runs in the centre of the frame.

Joining of the gear mech

Internal gear mech

To rejoin the gear mech, the male and female bayonet connectors must be joined back together. Pay attention not to cross these cables over when joining the hub and shifter cables together. Push the male connector into the female connector until the spring locks them together. Take care not to hold the female connector by the spring.

External gear mech

Rejoining the gear mech involves remounting the cable box. Place the twist shifter into gear #14 then place cable box over the hexagonal peg so that the two locating pegs sit into the two holes in the back of the cable box. Turn the twist shifter back and forth around gear #14 until the cable box falls into place over the hexagonal peg. Lastly tighten up the knurled head screw.

Attention

Should all 14 gears not be selectable after fitting the cable box, it will be down to the hub or the twist shifter not being in gear #14. There are two methods to correct this.

Method 1:
Remove cable box and turn the twist shifter into gear #1. Refit cable box and shift until it can no longer be turned. If you are not in gear #14 of the twist shifter then disconnect the cable box and turn the twist shifter into gear #14. Now reconnect the cable box to have access to all 14 gears.

Method 2:
Remove the cable box and turn the twist shifter into gear #14. Take an 8 mm wrench and use it to turn the hexagonal peg on the external transfer box anticlockwise until it reaches the end stop. Now the hub is in gear #14, so the cable box can be remounted.

Grub screw of the External Gear Mech

All gear hubs built after Serial Number 47000 and equipped with an external gear mech have an M4x8 grub screw mounted into the sixth threaded hole of the axle (it helps to prevent potential oil leaks). Therefore, the external gear mech can only be properly fitted in one position (PFig. 2) over the axle.

The grub screw on hubs with a Serial Number between 47000 and 48500 lies flush (external gear mech without a blind hole).

On hubs with the Serial Number 48501 and over, this grub screw pertrudes by approx. 2mm (external gear mech with a blind hole).

The blind hole B must be located directly over the grub screw A. When using an external gear mech without a blind hole B, the grub screw must be screwed flush into the axle.

The paper gaskets should then be fitted so that all the holes meet up with the corresponding screw holes of the axle.

To control that the mounting is correct, the screw C must be screwed smoothly approx. 4 complete turns into the hub without force. Afterwards, the installation of the axle plate including all the screws can be completed (3 Nm).
 

Pointer

If an axle plate screw cannot or only with force be screwed into hole C, then it must be checked that the grub screw A is not sitting directly behind this hole. If this is the case, then the external gear mech must be disassembled turned around 180° and mounted again in this position. The grub screw stays in its original position (2 mm pertruding).
 

Attention

If the external gear mech should be falsely mounted, then the fitting of an axle plate screw into hole C would cause the grub screw A to be forced into the axle. This in turn will lead to a complete blockage of the gearbox.

The removal of the grub screw is only necessary when converting the external to an internal gear mech, or when working with the hub seal replacement tools. The external gear mech should never be removed from the gearbox without good reason!